Where am I

Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta Leon. Mostrar todas las entradas
Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta Leon. Mostrar todas las entradas

viernes, 16 de septiembre de 2011

A wonderful sunset and the travel to Granada



First I want to present the most popular song in Nicaragua for the timebeeing. This raeggeton rythm is good to get in a good mood and in a dancemood..
Granda is considered one of the most beautiful cities in this part of the world, with its churches and colonial buildings. Yes, it is quite beautiful, but I guess I appreciate so much the more remote areas, and the rustic quality of Nicaragua rather than the cities. I have discovered that here there is more nature to indulge in. And after seeing a sunset in Jiquilillo that could be written hundreds of poems about, I find city's too full of buildings. Before I left Jiquilillo together with William and Fabienne we went kayaking which was great fun. We were out 3 hours in the afternoon, and when we came back after kayaking most of the time in a thunderstorm, the skies had cleared up and we could enjoy an awesome sunset. In the West the sky was an explosion of pink, orange, yellow and red, the colours mixing with the ocean that was throwing itself forcefully towards the beach. The colours from the sky mirrored themselves in the ocean and blended with the ragging grey foam from the ocean. In the East the sky was grey and blue, grey leftover from the thunderstorm. The beach was the colour of liquid gold, as was the wather that crashed in. It was the most beautiful sunset that I have seen by the ocean. Only a thunderstorm can create such fierce colouring of the sky and ocean. Anyway, after getting back to Leon, I slept there one night and took the bus to Granada. To get to Granada I had to pass through Managua, so I took the buss marked UCA, from there you can get connections to Granda without having to take a taxi across the city to another bus stop. UCA connects Managua to many cities and towns. I was surprised when we came into Managua. Since I have heard bad things about the city I expected to see grey, ugly fabrics and a dreary place. But coming into the capital city I saw only trees. It was like the nature has taken over the city and the only somewhat dreary thing I saw was the mud hole where the buses stop. On the way south I saw some more of the city, but not quite the center of it. I could not figure out where the center of the city might be since I saw only trees, and all the properties I saw looked like they had big gardens. Usually the trip with minivans are more comfortable than with the chickenbus. But the minivan from Managua continued to pick up people until the door could not be closed. many had to stand in an umcomfortable position.

The minibuses are the fastest way to get to Granada from Managua. You pay 20 cordobas to go, that is less than $ 1.  Granda is historically the most important city of Nicaragua, it was founded in 1524 by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba and one of the first European cities in mainland Americas. Unlike other cities who claim the same, the city of Granada was not only the settlement of the conquest, but also a city registered in official records of the Crown of Aragon and the Kingdom of Castile in Spain. Granada is also known as La Gran Sultana, by its Moorish and Andalusian appearance, unlike its sister city of León and historical rival, which has Castilian trends, both of the Baroque time. It was named by Hernández de Córdoba after the ancient Spanish city of Granada. This was done in honor of the defeat of the last Moorish stronghold, which had been Spanish Granada, by the Catholic King and Queen of Spain. Granada, Nicaragua was historically the sister capital in Central America to Antigua, Guatemala. During the colonial period, Granada maintained a flourishing level of commerce with ports on the Atlantic Ocean, through Lake Nicaragua (original name Cocibolca) and the San Juan River. The city has been witness and victim to many of the battles with and invasions from English, French and Dutch pirates trying to take control of Nicaragua. It was also where William Walker, the American filibuster, took up residence and attempted to take control of Central America as a ruling monarch. One of Walker's generals, Charles Frederick Henningsen, set the city ablaze before escaping, destroying much of the ancient city and leaving printed the words "Here was Granada". For many years Granada disputed with León its hegemony as the major city of Nicaragua. The city of Granada was favored by the Conservatives, while Léon was favored by the Liberals. For many years there was conflict that at times became quite violent between the cities' families and political factions. In the mid-19th century a compromise site was agreed on and the capital was finally established at Managua between both cities .
 For the most part Granada avoided damage during the years of conflict in Nicaragua in the 1980s.

Maybe it has something to do with the of the year, but it seems to me that Nica towns and cities are not the most noicy kind. Gates where locked, and in the street I had to watch out for horses and bikes, not so many cars. I found my favourite cafe in the center, Cafe Euro with really good coffe, vegetarian food and great WiiFii to do some writing and research online. Hostels I can recomend are the Liberdad (it has organic pizza night every night, and the pizza is super delicious) and the Bearded Monkey across the street. Don`t let the bedbugs bite :)

Pic from the central park in Granada.
 

domingo, 4 de septiembre de 2011

Leon

Beutiful Leon! The first real city that I have been in in a while. Drop dead gorgeous in the worn out, crumbling-down kind of way with its fabulous art collections, beautiful churches, cosmopolitan eateries and great nightlife. Originally Leon was located on the slopes of Volcano Momotombo, and from what I understand the Spanish conquistadores committed some of their cruelest excesses in old Leon, so when the mighty volcano reduced the original Leon to rubble and sand in 1610, even conquistadores, in other places, saw it as divine punishment. The city was doomed from the start, settled by unusually cruel and money-hungry tyrants, whose public spectacles included beheadings and setting wild dogs on capturing natives in the central plaza. After a number of earthquakes between 1580 and 1608 and finally the outbreak of Momotombo in 1610 the Spanish fled, carried with them what they could, to build up the city again where it is today, stone by stone and saint by saint next to the indigenous capital Subtavia. The old city was forgotten and buried for 300 years, and today it is a tourist attraction and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I did not go there to see it, there is not much to see. A dictator, Anastasio Somoza Garcia was assassinated in Leon by the poet Rigoberto Lopez in 1956, something the ruling family never forgot. When the revolution came the family got its revenge on Leon for the murder with a hail of bullets and bombs that are still scaring the city. A good place to stay in Leon is the Bigfoot Hostel that has the Pure Earth Cafe http://www.bigfootnicaragua.com/pureearth.html  with wonderful vegetarian food, all the food is vegetarian with the use of organically grown veggies and they have pizza nights on Wednesday and Sundays. The bagels are super tasty and you can get an excellent huge cup of cappucchino and fruit juices. Bigfoot is connected to Green Pathways a travel agency that promotes sustainable tourism.
http://www.sustainabletrip.org/profile/greenpathways. Bigfoots biggest attraction among travelers is the volcano boarding http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP3_UMAvyHQ and many people come to Leon just to slide down the slope of Cerro Negro. As far as I know it is the oonly volcano in the world it is possible to slide down. It is a lot of work getting up, carrying a heavy board of wood, and then with an orange suit and goggles you slide down. It takes a few seconds, when you are back in the hostel you are rewarded with 2 homemade mojitos (they are excellent by the way) and if you break the record you get 5. At the moment an Israeli girl has the record; 87 km. pr. h. and a boy from England has the mens record 88 km. pr. hour down the slope. Look for offers at the Hostels. The second day in Leon I went to the museum for legends and history together with Amanda and Camilo, it was the most scary and disturbing thing I have seen. It was full scary, badly made figures. In one room they have some history of torture that went on, on children and women even, during the revolution. And the other rooms are just full of big dolls or figures. Unfortunately I did not bring my camera but check out this website http://www.chickybus.com/2011/04/trippy-travel-photos-5-10/ and you will get the idea. The museum was a prison before it became this weird museum.


This is the biggest cathedral in Central-America and accroding to a story I heard it was supposed to be buildt in Lima, Peru and not in Leon, Nicaragua. It was approved for Lima because Lima was a much more important city for Spain, and in Leon, a much more modest onchurch was approved. The architect Diego Jose de Porres Esquivel, the Capitan General of Guatemala (he is also responsible for other beautiful and famous churches in the Americas) pulled a "switcheroo" and buildt this cathedral in Leon, and Lima got the modest one. The name of it is the Basilica de la Asuncionand, and it is the pantheon of Nica (Nicaraguan) culture. The tomb of Nicaraguas beloved son, the poet Ruben Dario is on one side of the altar, guarded by a sorrowful lion. 
                                  Streets in Nicaragua.


                                   One very old church in Leon.
                                                 Nica heroes.
                                       Inside the cathedral.
A beautiful church near the Parque central in Leon.