Where am I

martes, 4 de octubre de 2011

A crazy border crossing

It was hard to decide to finally leave Ometepe. The old man at Hostal Central was an interesting person to talk to, and we discussed a lot of the things I like to discuss. Happy that I am not the only person thinking the way I do. He told me about his travels all over the world. Quite amazing that he has traveled so much considering that he is born to a tribe on the Island. That is what he claims any way. He knows a lot of secrets on the Island as well, and he was willing to share some.I went to a small museum (there are many of them), to see some of the things that farmers have encountered here while working on their lands. The items below are 2-3 000 years old vessels used for burial and food. They were beautifully decorated with images of animals, such as the jaguar, the monkey and bats, and painted with bright colours.


I woke up early to take an early ferry to the mainland again so that I could cross the border to Costa Rica early. I saw the ferry called Che Guevara lying there and thought that I was going with that one. But I returned with the same ferry as I came with; Ferry I. I ate my breakfast at Cornerhouse to say good bye to Gary and Sara, and have a last iced latte. Then I went to the ferry where I talked to some local boys while I waited. And soon the ferry had emptied the cars (an amazing number for a tiny ferry like that) and was ready to return to the mainland. The ferry loaded on only 2 trucks and we were off. It was a little bit rocky on the way over, but I was standing outside in the front and got some last pictures of the island from the ferry.

We reached the other side after an hour and the ferry was stormed by people looking for customers for their taxis. There was a bus to Managua on the dock, but no buses to Rivas or the border in sight. I made a deal with a taxi driver to drive me all the way to the border so that I could get there early. We were off right away and got to the border before noon. On the picture under is Ometepe from the mainland as the ferry docks.

 When I came to the border it was very confusing. I had to go to one little booth to pay a fee and then bring a ticket for further inspection. I walked a few meters with people around me shouting; this way, that way, here, over there, everyone pointing me to the right direction of immigration, as it was far from obvious where I should go. My passport had to be shown to some guy, along with the ticket that proved  that I had payed the fee. Then some walking again and I was at the immigration (on the Nicaraguan side) where I had to show my passport yet another time, get it stamped, show the proof that I had payed the fee, and then pay a fee again. Since it is a good km. or more to walk to the Costa Rican border I hired a tricyckle taxi. A young boy was working his way with me and my stuff on the seat on the front of the tricycle. As I sat there, already flustered and sweating from the heat and ordeal, a man came walking towards us complementing me on my beauty (something that made me laugh because my hair was plastered to my head, and my garments were sticking to my body), another man pased with a: "hola linda!" and after a few more meters a young man smiled and winked. At that I almost bended over from laughter, and made the young boy who got me to the border, laugh as well. Bless these men for trying to make me feel like an attractive woman even in my darkest moments! He stopped by a lot of small shacks and buildings and told me that here is Costa Rica and he could not cross. Again, after putting on my backpack and gathering my things, I had to put everything down again right away when I was requested to show my passport, AGAIN! Then I had to walk, and I walked, and I walked. Maybe a km. or something.It was far to the immigration. I was very nervous, because you should show a ticket out of Costa Rica to enter, something I did not have. I had not even filled out one of those white papers with questions of where you are from, purpose of visit and next destination and so on.I was dreading the worst when I said that I did not have the white piece of paper, but the clerk just waved his hand, took my passport and asked; "so, Linda, how long are you planning to stay in Costa Rica?" I said that I was only staying for a few days before moving on to Panama. He stamped my pass and sent me on my way. Then I walked to a booth, bought a busticket to San Jose, and waited an hour for the bus. (San Jose on the pictures below)

It is only 300 or something km. to San Jose, and it should take 5-6 hours, at least with the speed the youngster that drove the bus was going. I was sure at certain points that he was on a mission to kill us all. I was used to tranquil Nicaragua and Honduras with much less traffic on the roads. So the first experience of CR was a bit disturbing. The traffic in CR is very heavy and the roads are as narrow, and underdeveloped as the almost carfree (compared to CR) Nicaragua. It took had us 9 hours to get to San Jose, and by that time I was really tired and had been tested on my patience. We had had to stop a couple of times for 20 min. because of work on the roads, and we had a 10 min. stop to go to the toilets and get some food at a truck stop by the road. It was dark and late when we came to San Jose. Dazed and hungry I took the first taxi i could find to Backpacker Hostel Tranquilo in the heart of San Jose. I shared the room with a man from Chile that workes in San Jose and 2 women from Germany that where on their way home to Germany. After a good nights sleep I went out exploring San Jose. It was a bit weird coming to a big, busy city after the quiet Nicaragua. But I liked it. I found some cafes with organic food and vegetarian food. San Jose seem to have a lot of great shopping, but do not expect to get things cheaper than in Europe. I visited the cathedral while there was a sermon with some priests dressed in their most magnificent and expensive robes. In CR everything is Pura Vida. It is a very ecologically aware country, the only thing that is a pity here is that I was back in the land of Pizza Hut, Taco Bells, MacDonalds and Burger King. Hardly anyone will agree that these 4 food companies have anything to do with Pura Vida (a Pure Life), but still they are plentiful here.

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