It is not possible to go to Costa Rica without the proper music! Actually at the Caribbean Coast that should be Bob Marley, but since everything goes, and there is a good blend (like, right now I listen to Indian music at Cafe Rico (where I have eaten the best Indian food outside India!), by the former named coast by the Caribbean Sea), I take a chance on Yeah Yeah Yeahs, because I just think that the girl is cool, and they will always remind me of CR.
Unfortunately Costa Rica is not the most cheap place, it is like living in Europe, and with bad salaries. I do not really understand how people get along here, and how they can buy stuff. The cost of living is expensive, even in the super marked food is priced like Europe. But for all I know it is probably a small group in the population that do all the shopping. It is the most developed country since Mexico, and it is also statistically the most dangerous one. There are more crimes being done here than the rest of Central America, or so I have been told. I will check it out. It is very influenced by USA, it seems to me that fruit companies and fastfood chains has taken over a lot (I see something that is USA everywhere). I hope that in the future tourists will not find a MacDonalds on top of a volcano or in another tourist friendly national park. I HOPE they will be able to live up to their slogan: Pura Vida, because they are doing so far (apart from all the US fastfood). But the pressure from tourists that really need their air conditioning on their 2-3 weeks visiting CR, in their summer homes or in hotels (to gawk at the bountiful nature and the animals), is big, and so pristine rivers are in danger of being dammed to produce the electricity needed. In the meantime, a Tica (Costa Rican) lives his hot, humid life without air con. I have visited a home here, they are hot, but made with high ceilings, and underneath the ceiling it is open space with just a net to provide air throughout. This is the mahogany tree houses, they are similar to what I saw in Belize, I do not know how the adobe houses are, but I imagine they are similar to those I have seen in Mexico.
My 3rd day in CR I decided to go to see the volcano Irazu. It is a big volcano with a main crater of 1 050 m. in diameter and 300 m. deep. It is the highest volcano in the country, 3 432 m., and it is possible to see both the Pacific - and the Atlantic Ocean from here on a clear day. I could not see anything for the rain and the fog. Irazu means "thunder" in the native language of the natives that used to live by it. A catastrophic eruption in 1723 destroyed a city, then capital of the country, Cartago, and an eruption in 1963 covered San Jose in a thick layer of ash. People used to think that Irazu blows every 30 years and was called "the deadly keg of powder".
In CR there are more than 112 volcanic formations. They belong to the Pacific Rim of Fire, and 7 are considered very active. The volcanoes are responsible for the very fertile soil that covers the territory of CR. They have all caused some major damage in the past. The most active volcano is Arenal, and Poas has the widest crater of diameter 1.5 km, the 2nd widest in the world. In 1950 it was decided that the land around the volcanoes should be protected, so many of them are within a national park. Irazu has its own national park. The CR volcanoes are stratovolcanoes, which means that the magma that fuels them is thick, viscous, and so filled with gasses that when they erupt the magma blast violently into the air. In the eruption of 1963 the clouds of smoke erupted, and ashes kept showering over San Jose and other parts for 2 years. People had to go out with a hankerchief and every day 13 cm. of ashes was swept down. 24th of August 2000 Arenal erupted, killed 1 person and injured 2. 600 people were evacuated from their homes.
To go to Irazu you can take a bus from where the National Theater is. It leaves 08:00 in the morning and you go back with the same bus 12:30 so you will want to buy a round trip for 4000 colones (US$ 8 (much more than you pay to travel in Nicaragua. The bus ride takes 2 hours. On top there is a small cafe that sells pretty good hot latte (you will need hot coffe because it is really cold up there. At the coffe shop they sell different suveneirs, among other things a note book made from banana paper. I think that this paper would be better to use to spare the rainforest. Under; a lonley, familiar dandelion has found its way to the top of a volcano in CR.
After my stay in Posto Rojo I went directly to Isla de Ometepe. I jumped on a bus at a road conjunction where busses came from Managua heading south to Rivas. It was an good old Bluebird (the chickenbus), and it cost less than $2 to get to Rivas. From there I had to get a taxi to the ferry dock, and crossed over to Moyogalpa in 1 hour. It is a beautiful crossing with the view toward the island where 2 volcanos are looming. The twin volcanos are enough to capture anyones imagination, rising up from the massive (8 264 km2, a little smaler than Titicaca in Peru /Bolivia and the 9th largest in America) lake in Nicaragua. The original name of Lake Nicaragua is Cocibolca - sweet wather. Among the admireres of the island is Mark Twain, who described it lyrically in his book Travels with Mr. Brown. The fertile volcanic soil, wide beaches, the wildlife population, archaelogical sites and dramatic profile have landet the island on a shortlist for new Seven Natural Wonders of the World. It is certainly one of the most amazing things I have ever seen; two volcanos rising up from a huge lake, it is not only spectacular from the ferry, it is equally spectacular on the island itself. I departed from San Jorge with this little car ferry. I am not an expert of logistics, but it I do not have to be a genius to see that the way they first put the big truck in the middle and then there where 3 small vans more to get inside. The ferry left the dock heavier on one side, but they can get away with it here, the one hour ferry ride was on a calm lake, but the lake is only 26 meters at its deepest, so I if the winds are really strong the waves can be quite high. In fact I have heard that people do get seasick on the 4 hour ferry ride from Granada, and I thought about the ferry ride on Pirihueico many years ago when I traveled in South-America with huge waves crashing OVER the ferry. I remember sitting on the sundeck on top of the ferry, feeling seasick and getting splashed by wather, so I had to go downstairs where the waves did not feel that high. In Patagonia the winds are so strong, all the time, that it wips up the lake in a fury 24 hours. The lake is in the 7 lake district in Patagonia. To go to Ometepe you can either take a ferry; Ferry 1, Ferry 2 or Che Guevara for 60 cordoba or take one of the "pangas" (40 cordobas) on the picture below (I think they are very slow and overfilled). They arrive on the island either in Moyogalpa or in San Jose del Sur. I had no idea where I would arrive, because I forgot to check it before I left, but I was quite sure that I would land in Moyogalpa, and I did. In Moyogalpa I found the Hostal Central or Indio Viejo as it is also called, owned by an old man who claims he is born in a tribe of this island. I do not believe him; he is fluent in French and English, but not in Spanish, and his children and staff all speak French, bad Spanish and NO English. They listen to French music and only speak French among them. The lake drains to the Caribbean Sea by the river San Juan, makeing Granada an important Atlantic port. It was suggested that a canal would be made at the narrow isthmus at Rivas, but in stead the Panama Canal was buildt. In fact the lake presses the land into such a narrow belt that it barely separates the lake from the Pacific Ocean and geological evidence suggest that there was no separation between the lake and the ocean in distant past. The isthmus of Rivas is replete with history. Although known as the land of Nicarao, the area was first inhabited by the Kiribisis tribe, whom the more powerful Chorotegas pushed aside. The Nicaraos came afterward, and by the time the Spanish “discovered” the region, it had been residents here for at least seven generations.
Main land.
It’s hard to compete with La Isla de Ometepe for attention. The magnificent twin-peaked Ometepe rises like a crown from the center of Lake Cocibolca. An intensely volcanic island steeped in tradition and mystery, Ometepe was the ancestral home of the Nahuatl people and today is an alluring destination for travelers, with its sandy beaches, swimming holes, hiking trails, and of course, two breathtaking volcanoes: one hot, one cold (the former remains quite active).
