Where am I

martes, 6 de septiembre de 2011

A week in Communidad Jiquilillo

This little boy on the horse asked me to take a picture of him, he is from the Communidad Jiquilillo, Northeast Nicaragua where people live from fishing and looking for clams in the mangrooves. The dogs are Nates dogs. According to Nate Curly, the big one, adopted him, and then later the smaller one Mojambles. They did me the honour of walking with me on a 3 hours adventure in the community and the long beachstrech between La Reserva Natural Padre Ramon and Nates Ranch.

Leon was WAY to hot for me so I decided to go to the north coast of Nicaragua to visit a small community named Jiquilillo (pron.; heekeeleeyo) by the beach. In fact it is an endless beach, with this pretty fishing community, along the stretch of dust road, that remaines underdeveloped. It is beautiful, and accessible from Leon by minivan /minibus, that leaves only when it is full to Chinandega, the cost is 20 cordoba ($ 0.75), take a taxi to the marked (10 cordoba), and then the chickenbus, 18 cordoba, on to Rancho Esperanza (or tell the helper to stop at "el Rancho de Nato") for a place to sleep while you are visiting the community. Another option is Rancho Tranquillo owned by Tina the "gringa". I have heard she is the happiest person in the world, as she has found her paradise here in Jiquilillo. Nate is another foreigner, from Maine, USA, who came to this place when he was just 18 to do volunteer work, in 1998. Because of lack of fundings the project was stoped before it was supposed to, but Nate continued working, improving health care for the community by spending his own money. When his money run out he went back to the US, and was able to come back in 2002. He has now lived in Jiquilillo almost 8 years, and on his Rancho he teaches children English for free, has an after school club, and takes in volunteers to work with him in the community. A lot of the money that he earns from the visitors to his ranch he spends to improve the health and education of the children. The same is true for Tina, and they are the 2 happiest people on this planet. People that I have met on this travel are certainly not people you run into every day, and it almost makes me ashamed to think about HOW MUCH we can do as individuals in this world if we snap out of our own selfpitty in the rich and comfortable corner of the world. And by doing so, we will improve our own lifes a lot. There is certainly no need for an organisation or other people to take an initiativ, there are enough people like KumiNicaragua is the poorest country in Central-America, and one of the poorest in the world but I find the people here very lovley and friendly. The women here are STRONG, I am not the only one who has noticed, and in Nates place I met Fabienne from France and William from Australia. We had a lot of good talks about culture, history, religion, and other fun subjects. William said that the women of Nicaragua are very, very strong, and at the same time very humble (what I noticed from Miraflor). In Australia the women are so proud, he told me, and he said that he has no idea why they are so proud. What do they have to be proud of, he asked. I have always felt that there is something missing, that I have never been told or thought when I see the female powers and qualities at work in theese women. I remember seeing the same in Asia in the women there; that glowing from within, they have this secret, and they know something. Something mysterious and powerful that I really, really want to know too. The thing that I know excists inside me, but never learned how to tap into. You can see it in their eyes, and often also in their face, and you feel it when you are with them. The soul of the people here is very, very strong and beautiful, and this is what makes people from the west fall in love, and not wanting to leave again. So many people have Nicaragua as their favourite country, and I met a different kind of travelers here than in Guatemala. For one, this country is flooding with German girls. I have a feeling that for every German man I meet like 6 German women. It seems to be an attractive country for Europeans. So they stay, and their joy is to interact with the people, and Nicaragua is so cheap you will not even believe it.
Several km. of dust road goes through the community with houses on both sides. At the end of the road you reach the mouth of the Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos that is the main attraction here, it takes about an hour to walk slowly. Busses are scarce, just 4 during the day (2 in the morning and 2 in the afternoon), so you might be able to take the bus one way, but not the other if you do not plan good. There are local resturants at the end of the road, and the mouth of the delta is a safer and nice place to swim. The Pacific Ocean itself is crashing in on the endless beach, and the currents and swells might be too forceful to swim comfortably in many places. You can also pay a visit to the crocodille project behind the school, talk to the locals, gride a horse and go kayaking with David, the best guide in the mangrooves. The fishdishes you get at the resturants are super delicious, and the fish is brought in by the local fishermen, that harvest from the sea without harming the environment. Unfortunatley the treat comes from the more developed and industrialized countries El Salvador and Honduras whom have already fished their coasts empty of fish and want to start fishing in Nica territory.


A walk on the beach during high tide made me have to wade some of the way. The waves were crashing forcefully in on the beach. There had been a typhon somewhere that made the swell very high while I was there. Several houses had to be evacuated because of the swell, it is weird that in a few days a lot of this was under wather during the nights, palm trees fell down and people left their houses 03:00 pm.
To spare the environment, Nate has installed theese dry eco-toilets. The instruction is; after makeing your DEPOSIT fill a bowl with the sawdust to cover it. Always put the lid down. Under is the common eating hall.


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